Relief printing is a lot like cooking. The fun part is putting
everything together. The drudgery is cleaning up afterwards. If you are using
oil based inks, cleaning is not merely messy, it can also be hazardous to your
health, if you don’t follow some basic shop safety rules. 
clean up hazardous is that you need solvents to clean up inks, comprised of
pigments and linseed oil. To minimize your exposure to harmful chemicals, take
the following steps:
- Use no solvent
 stronger than mineral spirits. Do not use gasoline, kerosene, lacquer thinner,
 or turpentine for cleaning. Frequent use and misuse of solvents expose artists
 and printers to a variety of health
 hazards, which include damage to the nervous system, liver and kidney damage,
 cancer, dermatitis, chemical burns and damage to the respiratory system. To make matters worse, solvents are usually
 either flammable or combustible. If you must use
 solvents, select those that are the least toxic ones. Using mineral spirits is
 a better choice than using turpentine.
 Turpentine is the more toxic of the two solvents. Lacquer thinner is also toxic because of the
 toluene and xylene used in the mixture. NOTE: You may have heard
 that naphtha and mineral spirits are the same thing. While they are similar in
 chemical composition, the main difference is that naphtha is a hotter solvent. Because
 it has a lower boiling point, it will evaporate faster, which usually means
 that you will use more in clean up. Stick with odorless mineral spirits. It is
 safer to use.
- When you are not
 using a can of solvent, put a lid on it to prevent the vapors escaping into the
 air of your shop. If you happen to knock a can of solvent over, clean up your
 spill immediately.
- Don’t eat, drink
 or smoke while you are working with chemicals. Do not clean your hands with
 solvent. A little vegetable oil will help loosen residual ink on your skin.
 Then wash your hands with soap and water.
- Work in a
 well-ventilated work space. Running high volume fans can improve air
 circulation and dissipated high concentration of fumes.
- Wear nitrile
 gloves during clean up to prevent exposure of your skin to ink and solvents. I recommend buying the thick industrial nitrile gloves. They last longer than the thin bargain brand latex gloves. You can actually get several uses from a pair . See my story on Disposable Gloves for Painting.
- Before using any
 solvents clean up as much ink as possible, using either rags or paper toweling.
 Dispose of used rags and toweling in a metal container or soak rags in a bucket
 filled with water.
- In cleaning the brayer, roll it over absorbent paper towels or newspaper to remove much of the excess ink. Then spray the roller with mineral spirits and wipe off the remaining ink. Be sure to clean the ends of the roller to prevent dried ink build up which could impede its movement in the future.
- In cleaning the glass
 inking plate, use a putty knife to scrape up as much ink as possible, transferring the ink to paper toweling. Continue
 cleaning the glass surface wiping it with toweling and low odor mineral
 spirits. Use solvents sparingly to minimize exposure. As an alternative to
 mineral spirits, some printers use water-based solvents. Don’t expect these
 cleaners to be as effective as mineral spirits. Use a razor scraper to remove any dried ink.
- Familiarize
 yourself with the hazards of any solvents that you use. Read all appropriate
 manufacturer technical bulletins and Safety Data Sheets.
- Keep solvents and other hazardous
 materials in clearly labeled containers
 with the name of the chemical or brand name.
- To minimize the risk of fire, if
 you have more than a few quarts of solvent in your shop, store any flammable
 liquids in a fireproof cabinet, that satisfies the requirements of your local fire code.
- Keep a fire extinguisher mounted within
 ten feet of your storage cabinet and make sure that it is regularly inspected
 and kept in working order.
What are Ukiyo-e Prints?
How Japanese Printmaking Influenced Western Art
The Evolution of Color in Japanese Woodblock Printing
The Division of Labor in Ancient Japanese Print Production
Checklist for Relief Printing with Oil Based Ink
Japanese Carving Tools for Woodblock Relief Printing
Japanese Carving Knives for Woodblock Printing
Safely Carving Woodblocks, Woodcuts and Linocuts
Linocut Tips
Japanese Papers for Printmaking
How Japanese Mulberry Paper is Made
How Handmade Papers in the West are Made
Selecting a Brayer for Relief Printing
Selecting Wood for Relief Printing
Selecting an Ink for Relief Printing
Inking the Woodblock Panel
Clean Up After Relief Printing



